Parks… National and Neighbouring

Summer is gardens, national and neighbourhoods, walking trails, clear blue skies with occasional fun spoilers the fires and cheerless hovering clouds. 

Sometimes I feel that in Canada there are two prominent seasons…Mountain time and Beach time. One is either climbing mountains or diving into aqua. I am no orophile but when it comes to choice… it is mountains over beaches.

This year, once again, it was slow travel to mountain valleys and parks in neighbourhood state British Columbia as Calgary is conveniently located at the foothills of the Rockies within driving distance to centres of world class hiking, skiing, winter sports, hot spots, golf courses, birdwatching areas.

Our decision narrowed down to Fairmont Hot Springs, located just off BC Highway 93/95, an easy and comfortable road trip destination, from Calgary, accessible via Highways 1 and 93 with a bonus drive through stunningly resplendent Kootenay National Park, British Columbia. 

We took the touristy blurb seriously…Picture yourself immersed in the soothing embrace of legendary natural hot springs as you reminisce about a day well spent with loved ones. A day filled with genuine warmth and experiences that showcase the majestic beauty of the Rocky Mountains! This was the right choice at the right time as two weeks later, after our return July 6, the town was evacuated because of the raging forest fires.

Soon the fires would spread, reminding me of the Little Fires Everywhere a novel by Celeste Ng, more on physical level, culminating in the horrendous and senseless destruction of pulchritudinous Jasper and Jasper National Park. Nearly one third of the town burnt down in less than 48 hours including Maligne Lake Lodge where we had stayed last year June 2023.

Summer getaway: Fairmont Hot Springs resort, supposedly Canada’s largest hot springs resort, is located in the Columbia Valley, foothills of Kootenay Rockies, British Columbia. The features, as promised in the brochure….large outdoor pools bubbling with naturally hot, mineral-rich waters, indoor pools, water slide, kiddie pools, restaurants in natural settings are a magnet for humans as no matter what time of the day heads would be bobbing in the pool waters.  Friends had sincerely advised against Radium Hot Springs (24 km from Calgary) as “too crowded and commercial” leaving me flummoxed that if I find this (Fairmont pool) crowded then Radium must be swarming.

Day 1. An early morning departure, first stop Canmore, 81 km from Calgary, for coffee break and dog walk. Onto  Radium Hot Springs town and lunch at Old Salzburg Restaurant, an old worlde casual Austrian German setting with European and local cuisine. 

The drive is through the verdant Columbia Valley with its array of sprightly waterways and panoramic views of the Rockies. The rivers and glistening lakes offer opportunities for paddle-boarding, kayaking, canoeing, whitewater rafting and fishing between Radium Hot Springs, Invermere, Panorama, Fairmont Hot Springs and Canal Flats. Radium is 37 km or 29 min before Fairmont Hot Springs with in between umpteen spots to stop and savour. As a result it took us extra hours to reach destination. The few spots we stopped at were Columbia National Park, between a protected marshland and expansive mountains with a lake, for a refreshing stroll;  Funtasia – Fairmont Fun Park with miniature golf course, amusement and a petting area adjacent to the Resort…on grand daughter’s request. I will not say demand. 

Another surprise or revelation are a plethora of Golf courses in every corner and nook and each bigger and better than previous. No wonder first few months in Calgary and “we do golfing in BC” was common form of sporting introduction. With no golfer in family we gave the courses a miss for ingenious adventures such as zip lining at the Mineral Mountain Ziplines, situated at Fairmont Hot Springs Resort. With 6 ziplines of varying heights, speeds and distances set amidst stunning scenery and views of the surroundings it is fun sport. (5229 Fairmont Resort Rd, Fairmont Hot Springs).

Fairmont Hot Springs is home to the Dutch Creek Hoodoos, which are sandstone cliffs (hoodoos) with hiking trails located next to Dutch Creek, a source of the Columbia River and formerly a salmon breeding stream. The Hoodoos (nothing compared with imposing Drumheller Hoodoos, Alberta) and the Hoodoo Trail is worth trying (we did on Day 4). Due to erosion it is advisable to stay on the marked trails.

Finally our destination, Airbnb, a comfortable four bedroom rental with an expansive view of surrounding mountains and rooftops. Relaxing tea on the patio followed by short hike and dog-walk in the neighbourhood to get the feel of area and to stretch our limbs. We are ready for the drive to Invermere-by-the-Lake, a quaint town flaunting trendy, funky boutiques, restaurants, cafés, galleries, speciality shops etc. and beach stroll along Lake Windermere. The village of Windermere, located on the east side of the lake, and the larger Invermere on the lake’s northwestern corner share the waters. Did not check whether pets are allowed on the beach. They are not so decided on another day.

Another disappointment was a search for an appropriate pet friendly eating place. It was driving around in lines and angles, different avenues, as most eating establishments happen to down their shutters by 7/8 pm. Finally found a Chinese eatery still taking in customers. Had to lock the dog in the car, windows open, and gulped soup and noodles. A lesson learnt… to visit the city travel centre for information before entering city.

Day 2….quick breakfast and Hot Springs time, dog safely enclosed in his crate at the BnB. By 9 a.m. the pools, the lounging areas and the greens were already overflowing with the white robed resort guests staying in the premises and the day visitors. We opted for the ‘day pass’ allowing us the convenience of multiple entries by just flashing our blue bands.

Bliss….as we slide into the luke warm waters with hardly any sulphur smell compared with some hot springs. This made us wonder if it is actual hot spring water or heated water. Later learnt that this is the uniqueness of Fairmont hot springs. The warmth is maintained at a relaxing 39ºC (102°F). The Mineral Content includes calcium bicarbonate, calcium sulphate, magnesium sulphate, sodium chloride, sodium sulphate, silica, potassium chloride and dissolved radium. 

The cool Rocky breeze from surrounding mountains added the touch of nature wonder. By noon the overhead sun outdid the warm waters and it was time to search for lunch. It was again a drive to Invermere for lunch at Spice Hut for Indian food (Booked in advance) and was surprised as for once we enjoyed Indian food in a restaurant. 

‘Chill Out’ ice cream minimized the heat as we strolled around the market area peeking into stores, art galleries especially The Artym Gallery, Effusion and Bavin Glass Studio showcasing works of local, national and international artists. Another popular place is the Pynelogs Cultural Centre (at Kinsmen Beach), home to the Columbia Valley Arts Council, a gift shop, a café, and a public art gallery.

Return to airbnb before heading back to luxuriate in the hot waters against backdrop of blinking lights and setting sun. 

Dinner was once again a search as the nearby Mexican diner Su-Casa (5388 BC-93, Fairmont Hot Springs) refused, it was 7.30 pm and closing time is 8 pm, with the excuse that they are fully booked. The next choice was the Farm Kitchen Market (8-5019 Fairmont Resort Road, Fairmont Hot Springs) for choice of ‘Pizza, Healthy, American, Indian’ ….something is better than nothing and we were not disappointed. Another day it was the mom and pop style Tony’s Greek Grill near the hot springs. The platter, burger and service did not disappoint. The outdoor sitting, plastic table and chairs, adding the casual touch.  

Day 3…I stayed at home with the dog while rest of family went  kayaking in Lake Windermere. This crystal blue Lake, nestled against the Rocky mountains, spans Invermere, Athalmere, Windermere and Fairmont Hot Springs, BC.  A summertime hangout, the Lake, offers a wide range of recreational activities from swimming, paddling, boating, and fishing with public beaches such as the popular Kinsmen Beach (on the Invermere side) with spread out green space with benches, a splash park, playground, walking trails. We spent an afternoon on the beach, grand daughter building her sand castle or kayaking and remaining family members relaxing in the sun.

Learn that their is another natural hot springs, the Lussier Hot Springs in Whiteswan Lake Provincial Park located in the Columbia valley between Purcell and Rocky Mountains. According to few blogs on this subject there was a trail from the Fairmont Hot Springs car park but closed due to landslides. We drove up the mountains past the Hoodos through verdant mountain hillsides and valleys on lookout for wildlife i.e. moose, mountain goats, bighorn sheep, elk, deer, grizzly and black bears. All we saw were mountain goats and grazing cattle. After a certain point the road and entrance trail to the hot springs were closed. Reason… land slides. Looking down at the gushing waters of Lussier River and what were probably rocky hot pools we knew we were missing something.

Google tells me that the Fairmont Hot Springs were discovered by explorers in early 1800s when they came upon the ‘land of smoking waters’ with lack of distinctive sulphur smell common to other hot springs. This cleared our doubts about the smell-less spring water at the commercialised Hot Springs.

Day five…Scouring the farmers and artisan market at Invermere and the beach. One can see why this town by the lake is such a popular year round destination for visitors from Panorama, Fairmont, Radium, Calgary, Edmonton and surrounding areas. The history is recorded at the Windermere Valley Museum, we went twice and both times it was closed. 

Short hikes: The Fairmont area is replete with hiking, biking trails, golf courses and lakes so if one wants something else besides hot water dips then the alternative is there. 

1. The Columbia Wetland Viewpoint Trail, an easy, out-and-back trail that stretches about 3.7 kilometres and takes less than an hour to complete. A fairly flat trails great for kids, dogs and seniors. 

2. The Marion Benchlands trail, a moderate hike 12.4 kilometres loop with 344 metres of elevation gain. The trail winds through the forest and along the canyon rim, with views of Columbia Lake and the Fairmont range. 

3. The children did the Spirit Trail Loop, the longest trail close to Fairmont Hot Springs. The trail is about 16.7 kilometres long with 451 metres of elevation gain. This trail is considered moderate and running along the East Side Columbia Lake Wildlife Management Area through forests and meadows.

Return journey: Lunch at Radium town and onwards towards Calgary. There were two places we stopped. One was the PAINT POTS – KOOTENAY NATIONAL PARK and the other MARBLE CANYONS. 

The Paint Pots is a group of mineral-rich springs in Kootenay National Park. The water is collected in what resembles natural pots of paints in incredible colours. The surrounding soil along with water is stained in vibrant ochre colour highlighted by green grass and the teal waters of Vermillion River. I picked up a few multi coloured stones from the banks of the river. The surrounding Rockies add that touch of mysterious to the surroundings.

From Vermilion River bank the walk is just an easy 2 kms across a bridge for the Paint Pots. We see various shades of yellow, red, orange and brown turning into bright reds as we approach the Paint Pots. The colors are due to accumulation of iron oxide that bubbles up from the cold mineral springs making the water mildly acidic and full of minerals including iron ore, zinc, manganese and lead creating a colourful topography.

One can walk around, follow the trails to Marble Canyon or The Rockwall trail but we prefer to drive down. One surprise, after all these years in Calgary, was sighting a Bear at the car park. The bear was oblivious to the stares as he/she was busy foraging its dinner.

Marble Canyon: 1 km distance, return journey, is Marble Canyon. For hikers this is an easy trail, 1.6 km loop leading atop a narrow canyon with the turquoise Tokkum Creek below. There are other longer trails.. the Stanley Glacier Trail, a 9 km (5.5 mile) round-trip hike that offers stunning views of the glacier and surrounding mountains or the challenging Rockwall Trail, a 55 km (34 mile) multi-day trek. 

For us it was the simple 1 km trail across bridges, peering down at the roaring waters and impressive limestone formations. 

*Marble Canyon Trail

Length (one way): 0.9 km
Estimated time (return): 30 minutes
Elevation gain: 65 m | Elevation loss: 35 m
Trailhead: Marble Canyon parking lot, 89 km north of Radium Hot Springs.

*Fairmont Hot Springs is located in the Kootenay Rockies area of British Columbia. It is situated on Hwy 93/95, 108 km (67 mi) north of Cranbrook, and 141 km (88 mi) south of Golden, Calgary is 299 km (185 mi) to the east via Hwys 1 and 93.

Neighbourhood Parks

The Reader Rock Garden….Our 8 year old granddaughter was intrigued by the name and wanted to know whether the park was constructed with books. The verdurous patch was a surprise as it turned out as a well planned nature setting with cobbled pathways, bridges, benches, green patches bordered with colorful flowers, pools, small bridge, a Gazebo amidst perennial beds, a bog garden.The south slope separates the garden from the adjacent cemetery. The Garden, created in 1913 by William Roland Reader, was designated a national historic in 2018. 

Reader transformed the bare hillsides into an internationally-acclaimed garden. (325 25 Ave SE, Calgary,)

Inglewood Bird Sanctuary :

Another ecological haven along the Bow River is the Inglewood Bird Sanctuary and Nature Centre for migratory birds. A ‘federally designated migratory bird sanctuary in North America with special protection rights’ the sanctuary has been there since 1929. Granddaughter’s observation…” the birds must be really grateful for the cool comforting place to break journey from north to south and vice versa. 

The sanctuary, with graveled pathways, ponds, grasslands, trees and water is also a boon for environmentalists, hikers, bird watchers. Dogs and cyclists are not allowed (except assistance dogs). Other facilities include Nature Centre, picnics and day use areas.

We opted for the afternoon Bird watching program and according to our Guide ‘this time of the day there are few birds’. We did see a few via binoculars handed out at start of walk. The ducks, Mallards compensated for the missing migratory birds.

Colonel Walker House.. Colonel James Walker settled on this land in 1883 and the brick house, built in 1910, was named Inglewood after the surrounding area. The House is now a classroom and office for the Parks staff and volunteers. It is open for private and public functions and celebrations. 

Brief History:  According to our Guide… ‘Colonel Walker’s son, Selby, was a frequent visitor to Banff and wanted something closer home. In 1929 he applied to the Federal government to have 59 acres on the west side of the Bow River be designated as a Federal Migratory Bird Sanctuary and Inglewood Bird Sanctuary was started. 

On Selby’s death in 1953, Ed Jefferies acquired the property leasing it to the Alberta Fish & Game Association. the property was purchased by the City of Calgary in 1970 and has been managing it as a natural reserve ever since.

😢