The diaphanous cloud shield over motionless greens and browns intermingling with aqua is the first introduction to the land I am impatient to touch base. “Why Hispaniola”? “Well…Why not”. If the Clintons, Beyonce, Elton John, V.I.Ps, friends, neighbours consider it their playground it must be safe. It is. It is Dominican Republic’s eastern neighbour, Haiti, that is a continuous trouble spot and on travel blacklist.

This is my first Caribbean visit and on closer look the countryside of cool coconut palms, the tin covered shacks with broken down wooden tables, littered bottles and glasses, the cooking slab, tarpaulin and drums stacked outside multihued housing…. reminiscent of southern India coastal region makes me feel at home. I remember our school geography lesson on how Christopher Columbus, on Christmas day 1492, saw his cargo ship Santa Maria run aground on the north coast of present day Haiti. The explorer was on his way to the ‘Golden East’ and by default landed on what he thought was India. Rest is history as he fully milked the hazardous journey and set about conquering and establishing himself on this new land.

We are on way to our hotel, alongside what appear as sugar cane fields in the setting sun, in the Bavaro region of palm-lined beaches, tranquil coral reefs and holiday resorts.

Santo Domingo: Two days of uninterrupted luxury of spa treatments, in-house entertainment, enticing swimming pools and gourmet food and we were restive to step out to discover the ‘real’ land. Dominican Republic boasts of the highest mountain in the Caribbean, the 10,164ft Pico Duarte; the lowest lake, Lago Enriquillo; untamed rivers; miles of coastline; bountiful nature and natural resources and the city of Santo Domingo straight out of (our) school history books.

The TUI representative (a local though an American citizen) at the hotel assured us that it was perfectly safe. He helped us pin the city tour of Santo Domingo over zip lining, water safaris, buggy rides, river caves, coffee plantations and chocolate factories, whale and dolphin watching, village trips etc. He re-assured us that there are special Tourist police in the Colonial Zone and if in any trouble or mishap just flag one down. Most important “Is any country safe”. Being a native of India I had to totally agree.

There is many a slip between intent and execution as by chance our official tour was cancelled so ‘Do you want a ‘unofficial one’ on Saturday’. An awkward silence…. and after a few minutes we agreed as we were leaving in two days (Monday Feb 12).

So, on designated day and time the tour van, instead of an air-conditioned coach, was at the hotel doorstep at 7 am and after picking up 8 more tourists, from another point, we proceeded full throttle towards the capital city. The Punta Cana to Santo Domingo roads are smooth (2 hours 31 minutes) and probably the reason why the driver, energized by loud audio, was oblivious to the speed- anxiety of the seniors present. The stipulated drinks or snacks were missing, except for bottled water and a short coffee break at a store. (Dominican Coffee is world renowned). Good that we had had a 6.30 a.m. room-service breakfast and had packed fruits and energy bars for the way.

The Journey: A linear drive as we rattle towards the City centre past tropical landscape interspersed with concrete and glimpses of the Caribbean Sea. In between caught on snippets of information doled out by the Guide…that the original inhabitants of Hispaniola (Haiti and Dominican Republic) were the indigenous Taino, who sailed in from Belize and Yucatan Peninsula between 6000 and 4000 BC. They were superseded by the Spanish and the slaves from African and Caribbean lands. Today the population comprises of the latter two. Rest of his introduction was all mumble jumble about the country and the capital being the cultural, financial, political and commercial centre of the country . My take … listen and note down names and then confirm on the Net.

Google Facts: Before the arrival of Christopher Columbus the island was called Quisqueya, Kiskella (mother of all lands) and Ayiti (the land of the high mountains) by the Taino. Columbus later named it Hispaniola including present day Dominican Republic and Haiti.  

First Stop …..Columbus Lighthouse or Faro a Colón, Santo Domingo Este or Columbus Lighthouse, the monument/mausoleum for Christopher Columbus. The monument highlights Christopher Columbus claiming the land for Castile in 1492, from the Taino, and dividing the land into five chiefdoms. Subsequent voyages and plunder converted the colony into a permanent and first Spanish Colony of the New World.

Entry inside the cross-shaped structure of reinforced concrete (680 feet by 195) is restricted. The reason, according to our Guide, is ‘wrangling between Spain and Dominican authorities about Columbus’s burial place. The Dominicans believe that the Lighthouse was the final resting place whereas the Spanish authorities, through DNA tests, proved that the remains are interred in the Cathedral of Seville.

The twenty minute stop was sufficient for selfies and walk around, reading the inscriptions and admiring the construction. The cross symbolises the Christianisation of the Americas. The emanating 157 beams, with one rotating beam from the structure, light up the skies and are visible from space.

Santo Domingo, founded in 1496 by Batholomew Columbus the younger brother of Christopher Columbus, is said to be the oldest continuously inhabited European settlement in the Americas. It was named La Isabella after Isabella, Queen of Spain and changed to its present name in 1495 to honour Saint Dominic.

Santo Domingo flashes past as a mosaic of vignettes from different times and places….gardens, monuments, historical buildings, UNESCO recognised Ozama Fortress, oldest European military construction dating 1493, the surviving sections of the Walls of Santo Domingo, crowded city streets..

City Vignettes

The Guide continued with his monologue as we approach the historical Zona Colonial or Ciudad Colonial located on the west bank of the Ozama River that bisects the city into two. The Zona, the old city and a UNESCO site, is 1.06 km2 bounded by a wall or Muralla extending from Ozama River to the Puerta del Conde the hinterland and western boundary of the city and a cultural and political hub till late 19th century. The city continued to expand as Ciudad Colonial remained the main hub of activity until the Trujillo* era, the period for the restoration of major monuments, including the Alcazar de Colon in early 1950s. *https://www.biography.com/political-figures/rafael-trujillo

Highlights of Trip..(not in chronological order): It was a newsreel of unfolding snapshots of buildings and presentations that at times, I felt, that we were driving around in circles, crossing the main road umpteen times. I was too engrossed in clicking pictures from moving vehicle, that registering and remembering the names in chronological order of viewing seemed less important than admiring and capturing.

Location: between Calle Arzobispo Merino and Isabel la Católica, next to Columbus Park, Colonial District. 

We crossed colonial buildings and parks, many of them dating as far back as the 1500s, such as the Alcazar de Colon Fortress, the Primada Cathedral, the Parque Colon or Columbus Park highlighted by a statue of Columbus. It was crowded with revellers, women doing the feisty Merengue (traditional dance form) in colorful costumes. We would come later towards end of tour to relax and soak in the atmosphere. 

An unexpected Barrio Chino (China Town) with its Chinese colourful housing, fancy stores, noodle joints and hair and nail salons. We encountered few tourists from the Far East at the Airport or the Resort that led me to think this region has missed the bus. But there it was the ubiquitous China Town. I later learn that this is one of only two Chinatowns in the Caribbean. Completed in 2008 and located directly north of the Colonial City, entry is through gates, running along Avenida Duarte and stretching across Mexico, Mella, and Benito González avenues. No stopping though would have enjoyed a brief look over.

The zipping around the city exposes it as a melange of old and new. Finally braked to explore on our feet the El Conde, the only pedestrian street flanked with boutiques, restaurants and vendors selling art and handmade jewellery. Google tells me that this street is named after Count of Peñalva, who in 1655 prevented British ships from invading the city. But in the present it is the showcase of Dominican culture and joie de vivre. It is obvious why as the area was teeming with tourists and locals enjoying their lunch time siesta, crowding the many eating and beverage places.

East of Parque Colon is the cobblestone paved oldest street of the Americas (1502), the Calle Las Damas. We follow our Guide on what previously was referred to as ‘Ladies Street’ as the women, including Christopher Columbus’s daughter-in-law, Maria de Toledo, strolled down the street every evening. Past the first nunnery of the old world, 1552, a Renaissance-style building with a bust of St Claire Iglesias de Santa Clara, that was sacked by Sir Francis Drake and his men and later rebuilt with funds from the Spanish Crown. Streets built for horse-drawn wagons are too narrow for the mash of cars, delivery trucks, parking spaces, pedestrians, bikers etc. Most areas are dug up for restoration or reconstruction including Christopher Columbus’s house.

Ancient narratives made us forget the strong sun as we duly followed the Guide, were handed out headphones, so as not to miss the descriptions, translated in English, as he pointed out buildings, their names, importance and year of construction. The signage is in Spanish and this is really frustrating as one can either listen or see. The sidewalk slabs have their own history (missed listening to it). We passed Christopher Columbus’s house under repairs (continuous) and the Alcázar de Colón, the oldest church and museum once residence of Diego Columbus, son of Christopher Columbus and his wife María de Toledo, niece of King Ferdinand of Spain. Completed in 1512 this old viceregal residence, overlooking Plaza de España on one side and the Ozama River on the other, was later converted into a museum showcasing 16th century furniture, art, musical instruments and weapons. ( no stopping and moved on)

Museo de las Casas Reales

We visited another museum, The Museo de las Casas Reales ( Museum of the Royal Houses) or the Palace of the Real Audencia or Edificio de las Casas Reales. Constructed in 16^th century, during the colonial era, this was the first/oldest headquarters of Spanish power in the New World and headquarters of the Spanish-appointed governor’s royal court, the royal offices like the justice tribunal and treasury for the Spanish colonies besides living quarters for military captains. Trespassers were prosecuted and in the present we walk around the buildings converted into Casa Reales Museo by President Balaguer. ‘It was opened to the public on October 18, 1973 and dedicated to the periods of discovery, conquest and colonisation of the island and its relationship with the rest of the Americana’.

The extensive grounds and nearly 20 internal rooms, restored and decorated, showcase historical colonial exhibits relating to Christopher Columbus’s voyages, slavery, Taino culture, agriculture implements, house artefacts from different periods of pre- and post-colonial history, the arched Gothic windows of the second floor from where the Sun Dial, that helped the court to know the correct time, is visible and the Mango tree in the courtyard. It was pointed out to us eliciting ‘oohs’ and ‘aahs’ from rest of our group. For me it was nostalgia thinking of the trees in our compound back home in India.

Next on our itinerary was the 4D 20 minute presentation of the Battle of Santo Domingo. Special glasses were handed out to us along with advice to ‘not stand or scream’ during the show. We did not but there were others in the audience who did as Sir Francis Drake led the attack of the walled city of Santo Domingo in 1586. There were screams and laughs as we avoid being hit by the sharp swords of the pirates and feel the heat of the burning city as fires and canon balls target us. It is a fierce battle and Drake’s ingenuity wins in capturing the city. Rest is usual aftermath, burning looting etc. and we have an immersive understanding of what it means to be defeated. We walk out of the remains of a devastated city. *The Battle of Santo Domingo was awarded the ‘Das Goldene Stadttor’ at the ITB Berlin Films Festival 2016.

From the theatre it was back to the Van to be transported for a walk along the embankment. The panoramic view of the crowded city across the Ozama River, the bright sunshine and the first Sundial, the cobbled streets, the walk past residences an art galleries.

Followed by lunch to savour traditional Dominican dishes. I played it safe with rice and chicken (not much of a foodie to note down the names). The highlight of the afternoon was the Merengue local dance show. The irresistible beat livened up the lazy afternoon.

Google pictures and description ‘The distinct color palette from light blue to greenish-blue with white to deep blue streaks said to reflect the Caribbean sea and sky.

Lunch over and time for some touristy shopping at the centre of precious stone, Museo Larimar located in the Isabel La Catolica street. The rare blue toned Larimar gemstone, found only in very small area in the mountains of the Dominican Republic, is a much sought after semi-precious gemstone. The vendors outside tourist locales sell Larimar studded jewellery at half of what it costs at regular shops and this is reason why I did not purchase ‘even a ring.’ 

Cathedral of Santa María la Menor

The Cathedral of Santa María la Menor , dedicated to St. Mary of the Incarnation, is the first and oldest cathedral in the Americas. (Started in 1504 and completed in 1550).

The Gothic architecture flaunts a golden-tinted coral limestone façade with ribbed vaults, solid walls and three doors, two of them Gothic in contrast to the third and main of Gothic Plateresque style.

I am reminded of the Portuguese churches of Goa, India, as we walk around admiring the artistic altar pieces, the paintings that includes a panel of the Virgin of la Altagracia dated 1523, old cabinetry, furniture, monuments and tombstones. (The Goa churches are not as grand as this one). The Church accommodates the mausoleums of the archbishops of the colonial period, Simon Bolivar and the remains of Christopher Columbus that was later transferred, in 1795, to the Cathedral of Havana and finally between 1898 and 1899 to Cathedral of Seville.

The surroundings of the cathedral are formulated in three independent spaces and entrances, to the north is the Plaza de Armas, the main entrance to the religious complex. To the south is the cloister called Plazoleta de los Curas while the annexes around the courtyard allow a passage called Callejón de Curas.

The Chu-Chu Train ride. We, or rather me, are excited about the ‘ historical touristic’ train tour that turns out to be a ‘toy train with a Guide and recorded descriptions of places. This 45 minute train ride zig-zags through narrow roads and side streets highlighting the 500 year old history of the Colonial Zone. We chug via monuments, churches, parks, colonial houses, the Casa de Bastidas, which now houses a children’s museum, the French Embassy the former house of Hernan Cortes the Spanish conquistador (1485-1547) known for conquering the Aztecs and annexing Mexico on behalf of Spain; past the Casa de Ovando the former residence of Governor Nicolas de Ovndo and now luxury hotel called Hodelpa Nicolas de Ovando, the National Pantheon, the Museo de las Casas Reales ….. and other notable commercial buildings of the early 20th century.

Glimpses of the Past (train ride)

https://videopress.com/v/CAaJN172?resizeToParent=true&cover=true&preloadContent=metadata&useAverageColor=true

Columbus Park or Parque Colon

The stipulated one hour break at Columbus Park, a central public open space bordering the 16th-century Cathedral highlighted by a late-19th-century bronze statue of Christopher Columbus in the centre. It is late afternoon and the place is getting crowded with tourists, schoolchildren returning from schools, teenagers, mothers and grandparents relaxing on benches watching the pigeons hopping around, the crowded bistros, cafeterias, music recitals by lone musicians……

Time for us to move on. A slight delay as one of our co-passengers has hurt her arm, a fall on the cobblestones. Our van was waiting and we drive non-stop to Punta Cana before the sun set to an eventual day of a rigmarole tour, a peek into the past, stoking a desire to return.

Lesson: Some places deserve more than a ‘see there/touch there’ and Santo Domingo is one such place.

Fun Facts:

1. Santo Domingo is the site of the first cathedral, first hospital, first customs house and first university in the Americas. 
2. Trendsetter of grid pattern for the new world town planners
3. Flaunts the oldest street of the New World … Calle Las Damas
4. Only country with Bible on its National Flag
5. Sun Clock, in front of the Museo de las Casas Reales, built in 1753 by governor Francisco Rubio y Peñaranda. It is one of the oldest and among the first known “official” time telling devices in North America. The Sundial works with the movement of the Earth and furthermore marks two differentiated set of hours, the ones from the morning and the afternoon