The incredulous reactions to our trip to Las Vegas “Oh! Are you into gambling”.… My answer … ‘of course I am’. The second caught me unawares “Who is getting married?”. I had forgotten that Las Vegas was the elopement and instant ‘Wedding Capital of the World’. Wedding scenes in movies, literature, real life showcased the ease of getting hooked up in Vegas. Who can forget the FRIENDS episode “The One in Vegas” where drunk Ross and Rachel get married in a chapel in Vegas. ( regret not clicking some brides… I asked one and she demanded money 😀)

No one in our family was getting married but this glittering city, where reality plays footsies with fantasy attracting couples on the promise of pleasure and escape, has remained a popular destination for weddings for decades. In 2024 more than 7000 weddings had taken place. There were spritely young and not so young brides in their veils and casual dresses stomping around on the promenade and hotel foyers, basking in their moment of joy. In the Bellagio foyer at any given hour there is a mini tableaux of brides and grooms cheered on by their retinue of bridesmaids and best men. I believe one could hire Cirque du Soleil or Bruno Mars to sing or perform. 

The ‘white veiled’ runaway wedding is a temptation and I dropped hints to my husband. of 45 years, to renew our vows. The first one was the ‘seven rounds by the fire’ ritual. He refused to take the bait mumbling ‘once was enough’. Disappointment on not listing my name along with the likes of Jennifer Lopez, Kourtney Kardashian, Brittany Spears and countless truant brides I made do with.sightseeing and casino hopping. 

Day 3. It is the DUECE bus service for us, getting on one near exit of Bellagio/ Cosmopolitan. Our first hop off was at NEW YORK NEW YORK CASINO with its iconic trademark the STATUE OF LIBERTY and famous landmarks including the Manhattan Skyline, Times Square, Brooklyn Bridge, the Rollercoaster. Once inside stroll the brownstone tree lined Greenwich village to experience the village eateries, the popular NY restaurants such as Nine Fine Irishmen, Gallagher’s Steakhouse, Il Fornaio, Broadway Burger Bar & Grill, the New York Pizzeria….. . We were early and the shopping area was waking up.

We exited for the next door EXCALIBUR HOTEL/CASINO.. a medieval castle theme with red, blue, yellow turrets, moats and drawbridge, a Disney replica inspired by Neuschwanstein Castle in Germany. The theme seemed too Hansel and Gretel-ish. I was coming to a conclusion that ‘Sin City’ is a misnomer. Las Vegas along with being an escapist entity is also a commodious children’s entertainment centre. The surfeit of child/teenager oriented attractions, mini trains, rollercoasters, zip lines, gaming arcades is endless.

Excalibur forms a threesome with LUXOR and MANDALAY BAY CASINOS with Mandalay Bay tram running between them. The highlight of LUXOR is the replica of the GREAT SPHINX OF GIZA facing the Strip. The Sphinx is 106 ft high, 80 ft wide and 262 ft long and the main entrance to the Resort. The LUXOR pyramid stands 357 ft tall and with 30 stories, the largest atrium in the world measuring 29 million cu ft (0.82 million m3).

We reach the end of the STRIP and with breakfast on mind hopped on to the bus for the SOUTH  PREMIUM OUTLETS closer to the airport. One could make out the rolling mountainous landscape beyond. The OUTLET is more of a “lifestyle village” mall with uncovered lanes and passages and greens, children’s play areas and full sunshine. A relief from the dark carpeted passages.

The benches were a welcome distraction for relaxing and watching zooming planes overhead . Had coffee and vegetable sandwiches from WHOLE FOODS, the only store open at 10 am. Slowly the assortments of shops opened their shutters, the restaurants were still closed, BARNES & NOBLE, BANANA REPUBLIC, SAKS FIFTH AVENUE ,THE CONTAINER STORE etc. There was a beeline for NIKE, there must be a good deal or Trump was on their minds, as nearly one in four visitors were carrying stacks of shoe boxes. Rest of the stores were okay and I picked up a dress from SAKS. The NORTH premium outlets are considered a shade better but since we had to fly out there was no point in paying extra baggage. 

Back on the bus towards the North end of the STRIP and the first get off is MGM GRAND and its roaring lion statue ( opposite NEW YORK NEW YORK CASINO). Somehow the MGM was a yawn, A dilapidated appearance, till one reads the history and the famous people who graced its portals. We walk inside and are awed by miles and miles of foot space. The interior covers an area of three football fields, making it one of the biggest or largest casinos with 2,300 gaming machines excluding the various poker, baccarat, and craps tables. The casino floor measures 170,000 square feet. It is humongous and we finally found the exit for sunlight. We were thinking of booking tickets for popular shows “KA” by Cirque du Soleil or the Power of Love Gala honouring Jimmy Kimmel but decided against.

We missed out on the shows as we did not book in advance. Tried last minute at the Bellagio where the popular world-renowned Cirque du Soleil show, “O,” was running. It is supposedly the ultimate in theatrical artistry set in an impressive aquatic theatre with synchronised acrobats, divers, swimmers. The only seats available were in the last top row where we would have required binoculars.

 Not seeing ‘ any show’ is unthinkable (to some) and I was lambasted for having wasted my visit. Well, to me the city streets are live shows, the history and the colour than sitting in an auditorium watching the antics of stars. 

From MGM GRAND through connecting MIRACLE MILE SHOPS we were in the PLANET HOLLYWOOD CASINO area. From here back on the Boulevard and a Deuce bus, northwards, for the long ride to FREMONT DOWNTOWN AREA. The ride is past the Venetian, WYNN, and other hotels. 

Downtown Vegas is identified with FREMONT STREET EXPERIENCE of bright lights, neon signs, elevators, traffic lights and places to go to such as the GOLDEN NUGGET (still there). It was the original VEGAS till the construction of the STRIP. The development of  the creative FREMONT STREET EXPERIENCE or FSE in 1995 resurrected some of Downtown’s heydays. The highlight is the barrel vaulted canopy outfitted with advanced lighting system transforming the VIVA VISION canopy into an open video light show. The area is closed off to vehicular traffic.  

The FSE stretches five blocks of Fremont Street, partly covered with vibrant flashing color patterns, Entertainers on the ground and the flashing screen overhead keeps one riveted till the zooming zipliners fly screeching overhead. The SlotZilla, one of ‘Vegas’ attractions is the world’s largest slot machine at 11 stories high. From here one can zipline 77 feet above the ground over two blocks of Fremont Street just under the entire video screen ceiling. 

Since ziplining was not for us we strolled under the dancing.screen taking in the downtown vibes of eateries and Casinos.  The light show with music takes place around 6 pm when the video screen lights up to swinging music.

Throughout the day there are a list of attractions….like rubbing the belly of the Happy Buddha statue in the California Hotel and Casino or numerous entertainment shows,

The best way to know the history of Downtown and see the relics of the past, find out where the old stars hung about on… take the Day/Night tour.The NEON MUSEUM, close by, is housed in a two acre courtyard stacked with over 250 retired giant glitzy neon signs of casinos and businesses from all over town, After sunset the signs light up. We leave it for next visit whenever that will be. 

From Slotzilla we turn towards East FSE, a less flashier side with an old town vibe with eateries, stores and gaming area on both sides. Could see signs for wedding churches and even a pawn shop. . Most of the wedding churches are here in the downtown area and I could spy a Pawn shop tucked in between entrances lending credence to LV being a gambling noose.

It was nearly 6 pm and we called it day, boarding the return bus to Bellagio and put our feet up. It had been a long.day and we needed the comfort of a luxury hotel. 

We enter our hotel through COSMOPOLITAN HOTEL AND CASINO’s carpeted passageways, consolation is traffic noise free and for me cannabis smoke and smell free. We come to a fork, south leads to ARIA HOTEL AND CASINO. There is a land bridge from Cosmo to Aria and follow the signs for the Shops at Crystals (which is the gateway to Aria) an amazing collection of luxury brands including Louis Vuitton, Gucci, Dolce & Gabbana, Tom Ford, Prada, Celine, Fendi and Tiffany & Co. A walk around, like us, as The Shops are a must-see, along with Shows. If you continue on the internal walkway you will find yourself at the PARK MGM. 

An about turn to return to Bellagio through the covered passage. It was evening time, the crowd multiplying, watching the Dancing Fountain or just hanging around. It takes all types to make up a Vegas audience. Families with sulking kids, teenagers excited to do their own thing, die hard dice flippers, con artists, stranglers looking for susceptible preys. The lobby was swarming with people, new arrivals waiting to check in, visitors to the numerous eating places, for the casino. A hasty retreat to our room for the next and last day. 

Day 4: We had planned to take the GRAND CANYON TOUR and found out from the concierge that the bus tour was a 14 hour ordeal. There is the helicopter tour or rent out a car to self drive. The last two options were out of question so we debated on the bus tour. Somehow I could not visualise myself sitting this long, breaks in between, and husband too agreed. We gave it a miss happy in the thought that we have seen the Grand Canyon, albeit 30 years ago.

The Chinese Lunar Year theme at the Garden

Now at the loose end went on a discovery tour of the Bellagio. The first stop the designer stores (no buying), the ice cream parlour, , the Bellagio Gallery of Fine Art (had to book), the 14,000-square-foot Conservatory and Botanical Gardens with its inspiring presentation of foliage, sounds, scenes and colours presented in artistic display. The heady smell of flowers representing Spring, Summer, Fall and Winter along with a special display for Lunar New Year in reds and gold. Designs are changed, living flowers re-planted according to the theme. To savour the cool setting dine at the GARDEN TABLE in the conservatory, 

Next were the slot machines and got lost in the gaming den. I had promised myself that I would not exceed $100 limit. I won some, lost some and finally zilch …..headed out to JASMINE to take solace in the exotic aroma of  Cantonese cuisine. The food and the ambiance, had asked for a table overlooking the Dancing Fountains, was a cheerful ending to a four day Vegas experience.

Beneath the swagger there are images of resilience and strife, of re-birth and continuity.