Train Journeys- Past and Present

New Delhi Station

The Prayagraj: The familiar bleak friable landscape interspersed with algae ponds, cattle and livestock in different stages of thinness grazing on non-existent grass, the sparsely cultivated fields, thatched huts, semi naked children chasing mangy dogs, men huddled on charpoys or walking listlessly with the familiar ‘lota’ (metal mug) for their morning ablutions, women, head covered, engrossed in washing, cleaning. I was aboard the Prayagraj train, named after my home town Prayag and present Allahabad, after a gap of nearly 20 years and sat glued to the window not wanting to miss out the familiar sights.

The excitement was visible as on night of travel I arrived at New Delhi station at two hours before departure time to a deserted platform and wondering if had got the day wrong. Maybe I had the Freudian fear of missing a train and arriving at railway stations two hours ahead of time though unlike Freud I did not associate train travel with death. For Freud ‘Dying is replaced in dreams by departure, by a train journey’. (Introductory Lectures on Psycho-Analysis’).

My misgivings proved wrong and within minutes the rush started and without undue effort deposited near my berth, second ac sleeper top berth near the entrance and the toilet. I was looking to swap my berth for a lower one. Second AC has two berths instead of three of Third AC sleeper, but my frail appearance did not soften male hearts. As one person I had requested put it ‘I have approached railway officialdom for lower berth of my choice months in advance’.

The ticket collector was Scarlet Pimpernel clone, elusive, and I resigned myself to the continuous footsteps and the all-pervasive urine odor from the rusty, rickety toilets (one is western and other squat).

An overnight train, the Prayagraj, is ideal for business or work commute but not for viewing the dusty plains of North India. I was awake early morning, 4 a.m. to preempt toilet use and for the first glimpse of the Gangetic plain awakening to dawn. I had done this journey umpteen times but the gap of 21 years made me curious about the changes as we crossed obscure hamlets, familiar not for their names but appearance, decrepit stations with platforms stacked with parcels and human bodies asleep or the in between naps, oblivious to the rattle of speeding trains. The familiar food carts, the tea stalls displaying the mud cups or khullars and their owners parroting ‘chai chai’ ( tea-tea) were missing. Station tea tastes best in earthen cups with aroma of leaves mingling with the mud smell. Fathepur,beyond Kanpur, had been my favored station to drink the special brew as the train arrives here early morning. Now we have the railway canteen authorised tea flasks and ceramic cups leaving us no option but to drink insipid tea.

Around 5 a.m., the filtering sun exposed derrières along tracks and at one place a group of boys ( four to six years old) appeared to be playing a game sitting in a circle. Not a pleasant early morning expose. There are no major cities on this route, till we touch Kanpur or Cawnpore of British India history. A history buff, I visualized marauding mutineers and British soldiers galloping across the grayish brown terrain of spreading dry fields interspersed with green patches shaded by mango and neem trees. (The Indian Mutiny of 1847* ).

China:  Train Journey

Beijing and Shanghai 102

There was still an hour to reach Allahabad and as I gazed into the horizon I compared the passing scenery with another train journey, in 2009, from Hong Kong to Beijing – Shanghai and back to Hong Kong. Then it was T 98 a superfast luxury train and the Soft Sleeper (four berths)compared with present situation had felt a luxury on wheels with clean crisp sheets, comforters, pillows, hangers, luggage compartment (at the top), hot water flask, step-on garbage-bin, mirrors, reading lights, air cons and new colored slippers for each occupant. The toilets were clean but towards end of journey, toilet hopping, it is a through train, appeared a better option.

View from trainThe train had swaggered past the scenic Pearl River delta, while a continuous drizzle and a disappearing sun cast a chimerical effect to the picturesque antiquated ‘shark’s teeth’ mountains and the pastoral countryside metamorphosing into a clinical landscape of barracks and factories, the occasional residential complexes with children frolicking in puddles and the elderly smoking, squatting or working in fields.

Grey skies‘ would be a continuous phenomenon of our 10 day journey, as we approached the humongous Beijing station mid afternoon. Few days in Beijing and another train ride to Shanghai and this time in the swanky D 301 Beijing/Shanghai express train, an immaculate all white, brand-new 200km/h sleeper train with staff in spiffy red uniforms and caps. Slightly intimidating and we slid in quietly so as not to disturb the other passengers in the upper bunks of the 4 bunk Soft-sleeper. It was a twelve-hour night journey and we missed out the country sights.

Beijing and Shanghai 178
Shanghai Station

Shanghai station is a throwback of stations back home, except for its voluminous interiors, with escalators not working and no one to tell you where to go. The return journey to Hong Kong via T 99, in hard sleeper of 6 bunks, was a journey closer to real China train experience. The upper, middle and lower bunks cushioned bunk stacks and I spent my waking hours in the corridor sitting in one of the chairs placed for passenger comfort, peeping into adjoining cubicles with passengers trussed amongst bales, packets and luggage, playing Mahjong. We had planned the train journeys for a view of the countryside and to interact with the locals but it was nowhere near the ‘family’ atmosphere of Prayagraj, of camaraderie with friends, foes, acquaintances and strangers.

Past Journeys: My bonding with trains is probably a residual baggage of my mother’s accounts of journeys aboard the British India Railways, the compulsory every six months winding up the hills to Shimla, in the Himalayas and return to Delhi. Her stories were peppered with grandmother’s verbal tags on the helpers and coolies safeguarding the steel trunks carrying the family ‘silver’ …clothes, ration, and household stuff.

The steam engines wove their magic in my psyche and as a six-year-old I would dream of traveling the Indian countryside in the chug-chug trains. My elder brother, probably in line with family tradition, joined the Railways via Indian Railways Institute of Mechanical & Electrical Engineering (IRIMEE) Jamalpur, an institute started by the British to rope in the best brains to manage the railways. His first posting was in Bhusawal, Maharashtra and my mother, me and younger brother spent a summer in his cottage in the railway colony. At night we would be woken up by frantic calls from the linesmen about some derailment or another and often my brother had to rush to the scene. He had been assigned a carriage, with bunks, washroom and kitchenette attached to a goods or passenger train, depending where he was traveling. We joined him once for a regal ride from Bhusawal to Mumbai and Pune. The carriage, coupled at the end of a goods train for most part of the journey, was a dancing box and our mother spent the entire night worrying about being looted by robbers or being stranded in some vague station. It was an experience having the humongous railways at our service, the linesmen, station attendants waiting to welcome the Sahib with fruit and sweet baskets. Train travel took on another meaning.

New modes of transport did not lessen my fascination of trains and they continued to be a metaphor connecting lives across swathes of land whether in air-conditioned comfort or sweaty general compartments.


Tuen Ng Festival -Hong Kong

The Tai O promenade is resonating with different rhythms: the pulsating drum beats, the swish of the oars as the dragon head decorated boats glide past, the fluttering buntings and flags dominated by color red, cheer groups, paddlers in their neon jerseys, jostling, waiting, standing around, the free drinks and snacks, the prize treat of roasted pig and the enthusiasm of  spectators

the prize
the prize

The dragon boat races of the traditional Tuen Ng Festival or Dragon Boat festival take place at different locations across Hong Kong. These are Sai Kung, Sha Tin, Tuen Mun (Castle Peak Bay), Cheung Chau, Tai Po, Aberdeen, Discovery Bay and Tai O on Lantau Island and Stanley which hosts the Stanley International Dragon Boat Championships on the same day, June 23rd, 2012.

We are at Tai O, on the north-western coastal edge of Lantau Island, having taken the West Rail from Hung Hom around 7.30 am and switching to Tung Chung line at Nam Cheong station. From Tung Chung the bus, no 11, brought us to Tai O through verdant green hills of Lantau west. We are early, around 8 30 a.m. and the onlookers, including volunteers, cheering groups and tourists, are slowly filling up the Promenade that stretches from the bus terminus along the lagoon.

The verve and competitiveness of the race overtakes the traditional festivities as the sleek 10 meter long dragon boats swish past propelled by the synchronized movements of 20-22 paddlers, sitting two abreast with steersman in the rear and a drummer in front. The carved and painted dragons heads and tails and the drum beats transfer extra energy to the rowers and one can glimpse the rippling muscles and concentrated visages, the want to win the trophies on display on the stage.

We watched for some time, the brochures as well as announcement was in Chinese, and walked over to the Tai O water village to observe further festivities of the Tuen Ng Festival. The festival, the dragon boat race is an accompaniment, is held every year on the 5th day of the 5th Lunar month in honor of the popular Chinese national hero, Qu Yuan, who had drowned in the Mi Lo River nearly 2,000 years ago. Qu Yuan was protesting against the corrupt rulers of his time and when the people heard that he had drowned they set out in boats to rescue him. Unable to find him they beat drums to scare away the fish and placed boiled rice folded in bamboo leaves to protect his body from becoming fish meal. The folded rice is believed to be a precursor of rice dumplings.

Tai O Dragon Boat festival includes the traditional ‘Deities’ Parade’ organized by the local fishermen’s organizations of West Lantau.  Before the races, members visit the four temples Yeung Hau, San Tsuen Tin Hau, Kwan Tai and Hung Shing to carry the deities to their associations’ hall for worship. On festival day members of Pa Teng row the dragon boats to Po Chue Tam behind Yeung Hau Temple, to follow ‘Picking the Greens’ ritual of placing fresh grass, from the hillside, in the dragon’s mouth. We did not see the rituals but I believe in olden days there was another a “Drinking Dragon” ceremony when few drops of rooster blood mixed with Chinese white wine and sprinkled on the dragon’s head, tail and body.

Once the grass ceremony is over the dragon boats follow the small boat carrying the deity statues towed by a dragon boat along the waterways. The residents of the  stilt houses and the village  burn joss sticks and gold silver paper offerings for departed souls as the boats sail past. Other traditions include eating zongzi*, wearing perfume pouches, tying five color silk threads and hanging mugwort leaves and calamus above doors, kitchens and bedrooms to rid of misfortunes and summer calamities.  The silk perfume pouch and the five-color silk thread tied around a child’s wrists, ankles and neck, considered protectors against evil, to be un-knotted on a particular day.

We mingled with tourists and residents hanging on to the railings along the waterfront or sitting in vantage points on the slightly shabby stilt houses or pang uks along the water, waiting for the deity carrying dragon boats.  There was an extended time gap between the arrival of boats and the restive crowd would patiently wait for the new manually operated drawbridge across the narrow creek to be levered up for boats to pass and then levelled for pedestrians to cross over to the market and village lanes. This bridge has replaced the 85-year-old rope drawn ‘ferry’ bridge for crossing the creek.

The smell of cooked and dried fish and other delicacies added to the sea front village ambience as we strolled along the lanes lined with stalls selling food items, tourist souvenirs including pearl strings, my friend bought one, and general items.  A resident advised us to take a cruise along the creeks and mouth of Pearl River delta to watch the dolphins. It sounded an excellent idea but it appeared that it was not the right day for this particular tourist activity or maybe others had same idea as there were no boats at the pier.

A few more hours watching the winning teams celebrate, the ‘Pig” was still in shape, strolling the promenade soaking in the sun and the festivities, it was time to move on. We took the bus for Po Lin monastery for a glimpse of the benign Buddha beaming down from amidst the dark clouds and for vegetarian food at the Po Lin Monastery.

*Zongzi is pyramid-shaped glutinous rice with different fillings wrapped in reed or bamboo leaves